Technical glossary

Thomas - founder / mad of backpacks -

In this glossary you will find technical information concerning accessories, fabrics, assemblies and all the know-how related to the world of textiles and handbags. back. We update this glossary as soon as a new technical term appears in one of our product descriptions, but if you have any questions, do not hesitate to let us know: our team will be happy to answer you.

FABRICS

Polyester (PES)

The abbreviation PES stands for polyester. It is the most used synthetic textile fiber in the world: more than 70% of the synthetic fibers on the market are made of polyester. It can be mixed with cotton or wool. In the photo opposite, it is a 600D polyester.

Polyamide (PA)

Polyamide is also used to make synthetic textile fibres. It is almost wrinkle-free and very tear-resistant, even when dampened. On the other hand, it is quite sensitive to heat, which can deform it permanently. In the photo opposite, it is a 1680D polyamide.

Nylon

Nylon is a textile fiber from the polyamide family. It was invented in 1935 by the Dupont company (at the origin of Kevlar®). Its properties of elasticity and resistance make it one of the most common synthetic textile fibers.

HT500

Made exclusively for the Mission Workshop brand, this material features 500 denier high tenacity woven nylon impregnated with polyurethane. This gives it good resistance to abrasion and water, while remaining light and flexible.

Cordura®

Cordura® is the result of a technology applied to a textile fiber generally composed of nylon and created by the Dupont company in the 1930s. Originally, Cordura® was used for military clothing. Its abrasion resistance is up to 3 times greater than normal nylon: this makes it very useful when used on areas subject to regular friction. In the photo opposite, it is a Cordura® 1000D.

Hypalon®

Hypalon® is a textile fiber created by the Dupont company in the 1950s. It is renowned for its resistance to abrasion, chemical compounds, extreme temperatures and ultraviolet rays. It is a material used on many inflatable boats such as Zodiacs.

Dyneema®

Dyneema® is a high-density polyethylene: its resistance to abrasion, cuts and ultraviolet rays is very high. It is used in particular in the manufacture of anti-ballistic protection elements for military vehicles, helmets, bullet-proof vests and "anti-cut" gloves. Due to the importance of its molecular mass, it is a fairly rigid material.

X-PAC™ X-PAC™ fabric is a laminated fabric originally used to make boat sails and was designed by the company German Dimension-Polyant. It is waterproof, tear-resistant and very light.

Cotton

Cotton is a vegetable fiber, usually made into yarn, then woven into fabric. Cotton is the most produced natural fiber in the world, mainly in China and India. The main quality criterion is the length of the fiber (the size varies between one and four centimeters depending on the species): the longer the cottons, the finer they are, and therefore the easier they are to transform into yarn.

Waxed cotton

Waxed cotton is cotton impregnated with a wax based on paraffin or natural beeswax, woven or applied to fabric. Widely appreciated for its waterproofness since the mid-19th century, it was widely used in England and Scotland.

Vinylon F

Vinylon F is a fabric synthetic created by the brand Fjällräven. When Vinylon F fibers get wet they swell, making the weave tighter. They are therefore resistant to showers without the need for a particular coating.

Dyecoshell

The Dyecoshell fabric has been specially designed by the German brand Heimplanet. Their credo: “buy less but better”. This is the reason why they sought to design this durable and eco-responsible fabric. Dyecoshell is made up of a structure of directly dope-dyed nylon and polypropylene yarns. This is why its color does not change over time: it has excellent abrasion resistance. Also, the manufacture of this fabric requires significantly less water, CO2, energy and chemicals than that of conventional fabrics.

Mesh

The mesh fabric is made up of a mesh of more or less narrow threads, generally crossed in a grid, like a net. It allows air to pass through and, laminated on a foam, remains very flexible. This compound is very often used in the parts of the backpack that come into contact with the body: the back, in particular.

D as in Denarius

When indicated that a fabric is 900D, it means that it is composed of 900 denier yarns. The denier is a unit of linear mass. Indeed, a 1 denier yarn is a 9000 m yarn weighing 1 gram: 1 denier = 1 g / 9000 m. What should be remembered is that, if the deniers are not the only quality criteria, they nevertheless constitute an interesting benchmark: the greater the deniers, the greater the resistance to abrasion. For example, a lining type fabric (used inside a bag) will be rather less than 600D. The most resistant polyesters will have linear masses between 900D and 1680D. On the other hand, the more the deniers are important, the more the weight of the fabric is also. This is why polyester can be replaced by polyamide or Cordura® fabrics whose abrasion resistance is much greater. A 600D polyamide can then be used as the main fabric instead of a 1680D polyester.

Ripstop

A “ripstop” type fabric is a “rip stop” fabric, or rather that stops the tears. That is to say that its square or honeycomb architecture will stop the progression of tears: the fabric is crossed by a thread which reinforces it. One of the advantages of using a ripstop fabric is its weight: for the same resistance, the ripstop will be lighter than a fabric with standard architecture. It can be made of polyester and/or polyamide.

TREATS & PROCESS

Polyurethane (PU)

Polyurethane is a polymer (plastic material) often used as a coating on other fabrics (in polyester for example) for its qualities of elasticity and resistance to humidity. It makes it possible to make waterproof the fabrics on which it is coated.

DWR

DWR stands for "Durable Water Repellent". This is a water repellent treatment applied to the outer layer of the fabric. The DWR polymer penetrates the fibers of the outer fabric and weakens the surface tension of the fabric: water on the fabric beads up rather than being absorbed. This treatment is not permanent but you can renew it at any time if necessary.

HF Solder

HF (High Frequency) welding can be used to weld two layers of plastic. A high frequency current (usually 27.12 MHz) melts the material. This technique makes it possible to assemble two parts while maintaining their watertightness (unlike sewing, for example).

Bartak stitching

The bartak seam is a zig-zag seam. It differs from the straight seam by its shape and better resistance to stress. This type of stitching is often used in the most stressed places: on the shoulder straps, gear loops or to reinforce certain zip seams.

ACCESSORIES

YKK and Duraflex

The two most renowned accessory manufacturers are YKK and Duraflex, based respectively in Japan and China. For many years, their technical innovations have enabled various manufacturers to improve their products. Thus, the use of buckles, strap adjusters, clips or zips from the YKK and Duraflex brands on your backpack are a guarantee of quality and durability.

Zip closure

The zipper, called "zip", was invented at the end of the 19th century by American engineers. There are over a hundred different models that vary by size (#3, #4, #5, #8, #10), material (plastic, metal, nylon) and whether or not they are waterproof.

Binding

The "binding", "bias" in French, is a strap folded in half that serves to protect certain seams and conceal the assembly of two fabrics. Its use is often a guarantee of a certain quality: it protects the seams and the fabric against wear and contributes to the rigidity of the bag.

Piping

The "Piping" is a plastic tube, located between two fabrics, whose function is to reinforce their assembly: it protects them against wear and stiffens the structure of the bag.


M.O.L.L.E.

The name M.O.L.L.E. is an acronym for Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment. The army's bulletproof vests and tactical backpacks are often covered by these horizontal bands of fasteners in sewn flat loops, on which various accessories are fixed (pouches, holsters, etc.) The advantage of this system is its modularity: the user can place his equipment wherever he wants on his backpack. Roll-top closure The roll-top closure is a waterproof closure: as its name suggests, it involves rolling the top of the bag to close it. Thus, water cannot penetrate it.

Roll-top closure

The roll-top closure is a watertight closure: as its name l indicates, it is a question of rolling the top of the bag to close it. Thus, water cannot penetrate it.